The Samsung dishwasher LC code indicates that the dishwasher’s leak sensor has detected water or moisture in the base pan, so the machine has gone into a protective shutdown to prevent flooding or electrical damage.
On most modern Samsung models, LC and LE mean the same thing: the system believes there is a leak or excess moisture somewhere in or under the dishwasher, not just a simple program glitch.
What the LC code actually means
Samsung dishwashers have a leak detection system in the bottom of the unit, under the tub.
A moisture or float sensor sits in a shallow tray (the base pan); when it senses water, the control board stops the wash, often runs or keeps the drain pump on, and shows LC on the display.
Because it’s a safety code, LC will not clear permanently until the sensor no longer detects water.
Common causes of LC on Samsung dishwashers
Typical reasons the leak sensor is triggered include:
- Real leaks inside or under the machine
- Loose or cracked water supply hose.
- Leaking drain hose or loose clamps.
- Leaking water inlet valve or sump/pump connection.
- Damaged or dirty door gasket allowing spray to escape.
- Water trapped in the base pan
- A previous minor leak that left water in the bottom tray.
- Water sloshing into the base when the dishwasher was moved, tilted, or installed.
- Detergent and usage problems
- Using too much detergent or the wrong type (like hand soap), causing heavy foam that spills into the base.
- Detergent or rinse aid spilled along the inner door frame and running down into the base pan.
- Installation issues
- Dishwasher not level, so normal splashing or condensation runs toward the leak sensor.
- Poorly routed drain hose or missing high loop/air gap leading to backups and minor leaks.
- False or electronic faults
- Leak sensor stuck in the “wet” state from residue or corrosion.
- Faulty wiring between the sensor and the control board.
- Rarely, a control board/software error.
In day‑to‑day use, the most common real‑world culprits are small hose leaks, door gasket problems, and leftover water in the base pan after a one‑time leak or movement.
Step‑by‑step guide to clear the LC code
1. Power down and turn off water
Start with safety:
- Switch the dishwasher off at the breaker or unplug it.
- Turn off the water supply valve feeding the dishwasher.
This prevents further leaking or electrical hazards while you inspect.
2. Check for obvious leaks
Before pulling the dishwasher out, look for easy‑to‑spot issues:
- Under the sink, check the water supply hose connections at the shut‑off valve and at the dishwasher.
- Inspect the drain hose from the dishwasher to the sink or garbage disposal for drips, cracks, or loose clamps.
- Look around the front, sides, and floor for dampness or puddles.
- Open the door and carefully inspect the door gasket for tears, gaps, or heavy debris along the seal path.
Any leak you can see needs to be fixed (tightening a clamp, replacing a hose, or changing the gasket) before clearing LC, or it will return.
3. Access and dry the base pan and leak sensor
If LC is displayed, the base pan is either actually wet or the sensor is misreading. To be sure:
- Remove the toe‑kick/kick plate below the door.
- If necessary, pull the dishwasher out from the cabinet enough to see underneath (protect the floor and be careful of hoses and wires).
- Locate the base tray and leak sensor (often near the front or side of the pan).
- Use towels, a sponge, or a wet/dry vacuum to remove all standing water from the base.
- Allow the area to dry completely; leaving the base open for a few hours, possibly with a fan, helps if it was very wet.
The LC code will only stay cleared if the sensor is dry and no new water collects in the tray.
4. Check inside the tub for over‑sudsing and spills
If you don’t see obvious leaks from hoses or fittings, look for detergent‑related causes:
- Open the door and check for excess foam or a soapy film inside the tub.
- Make sure you are using only dishwasher detergent (tabs, powder, or gel made for dishwashers) and not hand dish soap.
- Confirm you are not overfilling the detergent dispenser.
- Wipe away any detergent or rinse aid that may have spilled around the dispenser area or along the inner door edges.
If there was over‑sudsing, once the base is dry, run an empty rinse cycle with no detergent to clear leftover soap from the system.
5. Confirm the dishwasher is level and hoses are routed correctly
Improper installation can cause small internal leaks or misdirected water:
- Place a spirit level on the top edge of the dishwasher or on the bottom rack rail, and check front‑to‑back and side‑to‑side.
- Adjust the leveling legs so the unit is stable and truly level.
- Ensure the drain hose has a proper high loop or air gap and is not under tension that might pull fittings loose.
A level machine with correctly routed hoses is less likely to weep small amounts of water into the base.
6. Reset the dishwasher and run a test cycle
Once everything is dry and any leaks corrected:
- Restore power at the breaker or plug the dishwasher back in.
- Wait 10–15 minutes after power‑off before turning it on again, to clear latched error logic.
- Start a short test cycle, such as a rinse, and watch underneath and around the dishwasher for any signs of new leakage.
If the cycle runs normally and LC does not return, the error was likely due to a one‑time leak or moisture event that you have resolved.
When LC points to a faulty sensor or control problem
If:
- The base pan is completely dry.
- There are no signs of leaks.
- The dishwasher is level and hoses are correct.
- Yet LC appears again almost immediately after starting a cycle,
then the issue is likely with the leak sensor, its wiring, or the control board.
Signs and actions in this scenario:
- The sensor may be contaminated (soap, mineral deposits) and stuck indicating “wet” even when dry. Carefully cleaning or replacing the leak sensor can fix this.
- Wiring may be loose, pinched, or damaged, sending false signals. Inspecting and repairing wiring requires access to internal components.
- The control board might be misinterpreting sensor input, in which case only a board repair or replacement will resolve it.
At this stage, it’s generally best to involve a qualified appliance technician or official Samsung service, as they can test the sensor and board safely.
Quick reference: Samsung LC causes and fixes
| Scenario | Likely Cause | What to Do |
|---|---|---|
| LC after visible puddle | Real leak from hose, valve, or gasket | Fix leak, dry base pan, then reset |
| LC after moving/installing unit | Water sloshed into base pan | Pull out, fully dry base tray and sensor |
| LC with lots of foam in tub | Over‑sudsing or wrong detergent | Clear foam, dry base, use only dishwasher soap |
| LC but base pan clearly wet | Slow internal leak or condensation | Inspect and repair hoses, pump/sump, door seal |
| LC persists with base pan dry | Faulty sensor, wiring, or main board | Power reset, then test/replace sensor or board |
When to call a professional
Consider calling Samsung support or a professional technician if:
- You see continuous or heavy leaks from under the dishwasher or into the base pan.
- LC returns immediately even after you have thoroughly dried the base and confirmed there are no leaks.
- You are not comfortable pulling the dishwasher out or working around electrical and plumbing connections.
They can properly test the leak sensor, wiring, and control board, and ensure repairs are done safely.
FAQs about Samsung dishwasher LC code
What does LC mean on my Samsung dishwasher?
It means the leak sensor has detected water or moisture in the base pan, so the dishwasher has stopped to protect against flooding.
Can I just reset the LC code without fixing anything?
You can temporarily clear it by cutting power, but if the base is still wet or a leak is still present, LC will return. The underlying issue must be fixed for a lasting solution.
Is it safe to bypass the leak sensor?
No. Bypassing or disabling the sensor removes a key safety feature and can lead to serious water damage or electrical hazards.
Why do some models show LE instead of LC?
Many Samsung models use LC and LE for the same leak detection fault, just different label conventions on different control panels.